Kauai, Hawaii: The Wonders of the Garden Island
By Tim Vandehey
I had never been to Hawaii before my honeymoon, and for my honeymoon I was lucky enough to go to Kauai. Today, after having visited every other major Hawaiian island, nothing compares to the tranquil, bucolic experience of the Garden Island. For travelers who are tired of the crowded beaches of Waikiki (and the crowding and general traffic of Oahu), Kauai is a verdant antidote.
A Slow, Slow Pace
The oldest of the Hawaiian Islands, separated from the rest of the chain by the wide Kauai Channel with its treacherous currents, Kauai has remained the island least-touched by tourism, with much of it off-limits to visitors. Building ordinances dictate that no structure can be taller than the tallest palm tree, so you won’t find high-rise resorts here. Instead, you’ll find a few touristy zones where you can play in the surf and eat at fine restaurants, and a lot of small towns, quiet beaches, local-filled shops and surfing, surfing, surfing.
Kauai is not a place for the party-bound traveler. It’s much more amenable to the outdoorsy type. The pace is slow and sleepy, and away from the resort mecca of Poipu, there aren’t many clubs or rowdy beach bars. Instead, you’ll find incredible snorkeling, hiking, kayaking, fishing and other outdoor activities, all set among the most gorgeous, lush scenery you can imagine. As the site for such films as “Jurassic Park,” Kauai offers extraordinary landscapes everywhere you look.
What to See
A selection of highlights from the Garden Island:
- Poipu - This area on the island’s south shore is home to the major beach resorts of Kauai, as well as the amazing National Tropical Botanical Garden, worth a drive all by itself (Kauai has five fantastic gardens, all worth a day trip). This is where you’ll find the most tourist culture and the least Hawaiian feel, but if you’re looking for lots of friendly restaurants and tons of comfortable rooms, this is the place.
- Princeville - The other manicured resort area, Princeville is a planned community on the island’s north shore, filled with golf courses and other amenities. Again, not the best place to get a sense of true island culture, but very comfortable and a great base station for Kauai newbies looking for a sense of the place.
- Coconut Coast - The eastern shore of Kauai is home to the workaday towns of Kapa’a and Wailua. Here you’ll find the real Kauai: Hawaiians and haoles (white people) going through their daily lives. Be sure to spend some time in the charming downtown of Kapa’a. It’s a wonderful place to grab a meal (or a mandatory shave ice), take a long walk along a wild, windy seashore, and meet some locals.
- Waimea Canyon - Known as the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” Waimea Canyon is the highlight of the island’s more arid, red-soiled western side (beware the red Kauai dirt; it will stain your white clothes forever). Take a long hike into the canyon, or spring for a helicopter ride, and you’ll be treated to vistas of striated, multicolored walls, sheer cliffs, waterfalls, vast valleys and more. It’s the highlight of any Kauai journey.
- Hanalei - My favorite Kauai town, a small hamlet set on a perfect half-moon bay on the north shore. Hanalei is Kauai perfection, with shops and stores, bars and cafes, sailboats anchored in clear blue water, all surrounded by a gorgeous mountain backdrop. A wonderful slice of Hawaiian life.
- Na Pali Coast - Along the north shore of the island is the astonishing Na Pali Coast, a stretch of awe-inspiring cliffs and canyons too rugged for any road, and sacred to the Hawaiian culture. You can hike part of the way along this coastline to a secluded beach with some of the most vicious surf you’ll ever see (drownings are common off the north shore, so exercise caution), but the best way to see the Na Pali is by boat or helicopter tour.
If You Go…
- From Oahu, Kauai is a 20-minute plane ride. There are no direct flights into Lihue airport from the mainland.
- Kauai’s weather is wet and warm. It rains almost daily, but the showers are so refreshing and brief, it’s not unusual to see people driving around in the rain with their convertible tops down.
- Rent a car and drive around the island. It’s small, so you can go from the west end, where the road ends at a military installation, to the other end at the north shore start of the Na Pali Coast, in three hours. Driving is a lovely way to see the small towns and villages of the island.
- Avoid luaus. They’re generally kitschy and insincere. Spend your time and money in local bars and restaurants instead, or try to meet local families.
- Rent a house. This is one of the best ways to avoid tourist traps and see the real Kauai. House rentals in Hanalei, Kapa’a, Wailua and other towns are readily available.
